The Crux Of The Camino

León welcomes us today. Founded in the first century BC, there are a wealth of sights to discover here. The city’s cathedral dates back over 600 years and is a masterpiece of the Gothic style. As there is so much to explore within this ancient city, we take time to set off on our own discoveries. Tonight’s residence is the lovingly restored convent, the Parador de Leon. Tonight’s residence is the lovingly restored convent, the Parador de Leon and we dine at our hotel’s restaurant.

Hike

17km

The path out of León now runs through industrial areas, which is why we choose to drive today, making our way to Puente Orbigo, famed for its arched bridge. From here, today’s leg is a moderately challenging one, to the town of Astorga, which we break up with a picnic lunch along the way. Our further efforts are rewarded with a satisfying tapas dinner on reaching our destination. Tonight, half our group will spend the night at Posada Real Casa de  Tepa, with the remainder residing at nearby Hotel Via de la Plata.

Hike

14km

Our vehicle takes us the short distance to Rabanal del Camino. After the last two days, our legs are ready for some work. With the Meseta behind us, the land becomes a little more lush, and the path a little less straight. We pace ourselves as we navigate gradual inclines on our way to Cruz de Ferro, the route’s famous iron cross. From here, our ever-reliable vehicles drive us the rest of the way to rural Canedo, a short detour from the Camino, where the Palacio de Canedo welcomes us for the night. The walk will have whet our appetites for the chef’s tasting menu and wines from the hotel’s estate. 

Hike

21km

In the morning, we survey the Templar ruins of Sarracín Castle . Then, a new province calls. With Kerry-esque green hills and misty lakes, Galicia is a mirror of the northern British Isles, in culture and in landscape. The high point of today’s walk is at its end – O Cebreiro is an ancient Celtic town where time has stood still for more than 1,500 years. Here we marvel at pallozas, low stone huts with sweeping circular roofs. Tonight, we rest at the Hotel Alfonso IX in Sarria.

Hike

21km

Those determined to earn their Compostela must walk the rest of the way. We collect, in our pilgrim’s passport, a stamp at each town, proof that we are committed to our challenging journey. On our way to Ferreiros, our courtesy vehicle stops momentarily so we can see the 12th-century Iglesia de Santiago, one of Galicia’s premier Romanesque churches. We then arrive in Ferreiros, where we begin our day’s walk. Eucalyptus and pine trees line the trails as we head toward Ventas de Narón. Along the way, we are also met with the sight of several hórreos, Galician grain storage buildings, dotted along the route. Tonight, we take our rest at Spa Hotel Vistalegre (May departure) or Hotel Mercure Lugo (June departure).

Hike

20km

A short drive takes us to Ventas de Narón, from where we walk to O Coto, sustained by our picnic lunch en route. Along the way, the pretty countryside distracts us at regular intervals. Old villages, once hubs of activity, lie quietly along our path; our peace disturbed only by the occasional bird or chatty walker. On reaching O Coto, our trusty transport delivers us to nearby Portomarin (May departure) or Lugo (June departure), where we dine in one of its charming restaurants. The chef’s culinary specialties suitably nourish us, before we return to Spa Hotel Vistalegre (May) or Hotel Mercure Lugo (June) for a restful sleep.

Hike

20km

The starting point of today’s walk is O Coto. We soon reach the enchanting hamlet of Leboreiro, known for its ancient, yet modest, church, the Igrexa de Santa María de Leboreiro. About halfway along our route, we arrive in Boente, whose residents are renowned for producing the finest local cheeses. A sample or two may just be the perfect supplement to our picnic lunch. Our walk concludes at the Church of Santa Maria Magdalena in Arzúa. The rest of the afternoon is ours to enjoy at leisure, before we are conveyed to this evening’s residence, Pazo de Brandeso. Tonight’s meal is enjoyed in our accommodation’s elegant dining room. 

Hike

24km

Our westward journey continues as we set out on our walk from Arzúa, the hamlet of O Amenal today’s goal. We enter and depart the forest at regular intervals and reach the small town of Boavista, enjoying a light lunch along the way. O Amenal welcomes us and we take the rest of the day at leisure. Our vehicles then return us to Arzúa, where our vitality is restored in one of the town’s finest restaurants. We then enjoy a second night at Pazo de Brandeso. 

Hike

14km

We have 14 kilometres left to go. One hour from Santiago de Compostela, we reach Monte do Gozo, where we glimpse our first sight of the grand cathedral’s spires. We feel an emotional tug – we are on the finishing stretch. Modern roads give way to winding medieval lanes as we enter the old city, then suddenly, from the square of Obradoiro, we see the cathedral itself, soaring from the ground. We have arrived. With reverence, we enter via the Portico of Glory, itself a microcosm of the bible in exquisite stone. We each take a moment, coming to terms with the magnitude of our endeavour. This evening, we select from Santiago de Compostela’s many first-rate restaurants. The magnificent Parador de Santiago (May departure) or Quinta da Auga (June departure) is our home for two nights. 

One final ceremony marks the end of our journey – the legendary pilgrim’s mass at the cathedral. It features the incredible Botafumeiro, a giant thurible, or incense burner on chains. Weighing 80 kilograms when full and 21 metres at maximum swing, it requires eight men to operate. They pull on it in unison, swinging the thurible above the congregation’s heads and perfuming the air. Tonight, we indulge ourselves with a private dinner within our hotel, calling for multiple toasts to our incredible experience. It would not be amiss to say that we have grown in wisdom and resilience, and lighter in spirit.

We enjoy a final morning at leisure before our rewarding adventure concludes.